For years Boone has been widely hailed as one of the premier towns to live in to pursue outdoor sports. From world class rock climbing to stellar whitewater paddling, phenomenal road rides and thrilling singletracks for the cyclists, there are few towns that offer such a variety of quality outdoor recreational playgrounds as Boone and the surrounding mountains known as The High Country. The rolling hills, towering mountains, and lush river valleys of the Blue Ridge Mountains have been drawing a crowd of outdoor enthusiasts for hundreds of years. In the early days the adventure was exploration and the notable leaders of the era (Daniel Boone, Asa Gray, Andre Michaux) were some of the first to document the beauty that was to be found in the rugged, unspoiled mountains of the Blue Ridge. In the modern era the explorers come for the cycling, the climbing, the whitewater, and the hiking and, despite the growing population of the High Country, find no shortage of awe-inspiring trails, rivers, boulders, crags, and forests to keep them satisfied.
Kelly
McCoy of Rivergirl Fishing Company has been busy to say the least. Her
lunch, a slice of cold pizza, is warming on the back porch of the old
train depot in Todd when the phone rings.
The Train Depot is
rustic and weathered by age, yet nearly everywhere you look are fishing
and floating gear. Boats of all types range from Old Town kayaks and
canoes, to a few single-person inflatable fishing rafts, down to the
old standard inner tube. A vast assortment of fly-fishing rods and
reels is neatly arranged in the center of the floor near a table with
all types of lures, from dry flies to buzz baits.
McCoy, who obviously spends her share of time under the sun, hangs up the phone and walks over to a new Old Town kayak.
“I’ve
got a couple of guys coming in for the weekend to go canoeing,” she
says with a slight southern drawl. “They’ve been planning on renting a
boat from me for awhile but now they each want to paddle their own
boat. They were wondering if they could bring a canoe with them. I
said, ‘Sure, I don’t see why not. If you load it I won’t charge you
anything.’”
She obviously likes to see people enjoying the
river. “Some people come in and I ask them how long they want to
paddle. Some say, ‘An hour.’ Well, that’s fine for some folks, but me,
if I had a choice I’d be out there all day.”
You could say
that the idea for Rivergirl Fishing Company spawned in the murky swamps
of southern Florida. McCoy worked in Florida for many years as a
fisheries biologist, and she used to dream about owning her own
outfitter shop.
“When I worked in Florida, my fellow
biologists and I would talk while we were out on the boats about
opening our own fishing shops and how we would stock them and run them.
Now, I am living my dream,” she said.
When a young family
walks in, McCoy introduces herself with a handshake and a smile. The
family is ready for a fishing outing and needs to renew their licenses.
The family looks around the shop for a while, stocks their
tackle box with a few new lures and then heads off to the river to
enjoy the sunny day.
“When I first moved here, there wasn't a
place close by to get a fishing license, so I figured a fishing shop
would be a perfect fit for Todd,” McCoy said. “I mean, here were we are
on the South Fork of the New River—the oldest river in the U.S.—and no
fishing shop close by!”
A photo album labeled Todd Fishing
sits on the table. Inside the album are countless photos of McCoy
holding up her latest catch for the camera. She is a strong believer in
catch-and-release fishing and hopes that renewed interest in sport
fishing will help increase both the number and size of the smallmouth
bass in the South Fork of the New River.
“I try to instill
some conservation ethics with every lesson I teach so hopefully we will
keep having some nice fish to catch in this river,” McCoy said.
In
addition to encouraging sport fishing on the New River, Rivergirl
Fishing Company is determined to clean up the riverbanks and the river.
In an effort to get more people on the river to help with the cleanup
process, McCoy offers free boats every Sunday, as well as a free
shuttle, to anyone who will pick up trash as s/he paddles.
“We
had our first Sunday two weeks ago and we picked up seven big garbage
bags. This is a great way for people to get a free ride down the river
and learn about conservation and help with river cleanup,” she said.
On
the depot’s back porch, McCoy’s lunch is still warming beneath the
bright May sun. A young woman walks into the shop for her scheduled
fly-fishing lesson. McCoy grabs her lunch and her fly rod and heads out
the front door. Petunia, her pet pig in the pen out front, greets her
with a few grunts and begs for sunflower seeds as they pass by. McCoy
and the young woman walk off through the green grass toward the Todd
Park where McCoy teaches introductory fly casting lessons. The sun is
high in the sky and a cool breeze blows through the trees. It is a
perfect day to go fishing.
The Watauga River is known throughout the Southeast for the rowdy nature of the river's gorge section. However, the section immediately preceding the gorge is a fine, quality piece of paddling that does not often get the attention it deserves.
The river features quality class II paddling at most levels but is best run at c.f.s. levels above 300. Below 300 c.f.s. the river is hard to navigate due to the high number of boulders and ledges. From 300 to 600 the river is at its prime for an intermediate whitewater run. The size of the holes increase and the waves stack up and reach four feet in height for prolonged distances. I have run the river at 2000 c.f.s. in a tandem whitewater canoe and found that the integrity of the river maintained its high quality and only a few of the rapids washed out. The river is absolutely pristine and clear after a flood when the water levels have reached 2000 c.f.s. or higher and are slowly coming back down.
The most popular put-in is below the Highway 321 bridge heading toward Tennessee. The take-out is four miles further down the road at Guy Ford Bridge. The shuttle can be biked with little difficulty. An additional put-in is available further upstream at a low-water bridge with a sandy beach. The upstream put-in features a nice wave that can be surfed at high levels and offers an additional half-mile of mostly flat water to get acclimated to the water.
The first major rapid comes 1/4 mile beyond the Highway 321 bridge. The rapid is known as "Table Saw" by many paddlers, though variances in the name most likely exist. The rapid forms at the confluence of a small tributary that forms Trash Can Falls (a thirty foot waterfall popular with locals as a swimming hole). In the middle to right side of the river a large boulder/flake stands on end forming the appearance of a blade. Run this rapid to river left and brace for the inflow of water from the Trash Can Falls tributary. The rapid ranges from Class II at the 300 level to solid Class III at 1000. In the event of a swim through this rapid head immediately to shore as a mandatory scout/portage exists a few hundred yards downstream. Takeout at river right near a sandy beach. The next rapid, known alternately as "The Clog" or "Snakepit" is a Class III+ with a dangerous sieve at the bottom. This rapid is more often run at levels above 1000 than below.
**Numerous fatalities have occurred at this rapid**
Scout the rapid from the boulders on river right or portage down the road to the flatwater below the rapid. The rapid is a quarter of a mile long and features several nice drops into pools before meeting the obstruction of boulders at the bottom of the rapid that form the sieve.
Beyond the "Clog"/"Snakepit" the river mellows down for a half mile. There is a long shoal called "The Spine" that forces the water to river left. The rapid features scattered soccer ball size rocks that force one to possess either good maneuvering skills or capable boat dragging strength. At high water the river piles up on a boulder beneath a tree overhanging the water and creates a very nice wave with a downstream eddy that allows for easy surfing.
The next notable rapid forms around a corner after a long, flat pool. The river forms a long wave train that features excellent waves with height varying according to water level. At good water levels the wave train lasts for over a quarter mile.
The Bethel Bridge Rapid can be run three ways. Each line features a decent drop, though the center line seems to hold the most water. The rapid is a two to three foot drop and a good precursor to the monster hole waiting below. Below Bethel Bridge the river runs over a ledge system that forms a nice standing wave. At high waters a monster hole on river right swallows canoes. There is a boulder in the center of the river that creates an excellent eddy for a surf lineup. Downstream 1/10 of a mile is the final culmination of the Bethel Bridge Rapid. There are several nice drops with hidden boulders that form good waves and provide a great ride to finish out one of the best rapids on the run. At normal, low water levels the rapid is a Class II at most. However, at levels around 500 and up the rapid and hole merge to become a longer, more sustained rapid that should be approached with caution.
Beyond the Bethel Bridge the river maintains its casual pace before throwing one last surprise at the unwary paddler. The river makes a sharp bend in an unexpected position and forms a Z style rapid that takes considerable turning ability to properly maneuver. However, if one misses the turn completely it is possible to barrel straight over the rock that the water piles up on and boof big, knee cap shattering air.
There is an additional wave train that features a good introductory spot for canoe surfing near a large boulder on river right. The river runs over a ledge that pours over in a hydraulic manner allowing one to simply point the bow upstream, give a light paddle, keep the keel straight and maintain a quality bank-to-bank surf.
The takeout is on the river left before the large concrete bridge. The Watauga River Gorge starts below the bridge.
PROS: The river is a classic, scenic river featuring a high-concentration of quality rapids that are a great introduction to whitewater paddling.
CONS: The 1/4 mile portage around the "Clog" is difficult and requires climbing a steep, muddy bank where traction is tough to come by.
Directions:
From Boone,NC --> 321 South toward Watauga Lake
Launches:
Put-In @ 321 bridge near Watauga River Road
Take-Out @ Guy Ford Road Bridge just past general store/gas station
Contact:
AmericanWhitewater.org for water levels
TVA.gov for water levels
CLIMB Destination: Beacon Heights Bouldering
By Eric Crews
The rock batholiths of Beacon Heights have long been a favorite viewpoint for people traveling down the Blue Ridge Parkway or Highway 221. And for good reason. The massive slab of gray rock towers over the tree line to provide superb views of the Lost Cove Cliffs, Hawksbill Mountain, and further toward the South, the towering ridge of the Black Mountains.
Hike one mile up a beautiful, boulder strewn trail through the changing eco-system to the incomparable summit. Explore the rocky, rounded slabs of Beacon Heights and take in the awe-inspiring views of Grandfather Mountain. The exposed tower of McCrae Peak and the forest shrouded profile of Calloway Peak take prominence over the massive rock formations of Grandfather Mountain’s South Face. Venture down into the woods and explore the towering stands of Spruce Pines, Hemlocks, and Red Oaks that comprise the towering forests of the Blue Ridge Mountains’ highest elevations. Steer clear of the thick rhodos and mountain laurel and head toward the open forest where the minimal amount of undergrowth beneath the evergreens allows for easy walking. Head deeper into the forest and discover large boulders that jut upward from the forest floor nearly twenty feet. The rocks are scattered throughout the high-altitude evergreen jungle and provide a veritable playground for those so inclined. The boulders in this forest have a plethora of large holds which allows for even the beginner climber to have fun and feel the thrill of success. The top of the boulders are shrouded by large trees which provide a bit of seclusion and isolation while still offering an enchanting view of the Linville Gorge.
There are several smaller boulders in the woods that offer boulder problems with a good range of difficulty. Almost everything at Beacon Heights is ideally suited for beginners, being reasonably difficult, but not so difficult that it can’t be done after a few good tries. If you don’t succeed get up and try again, but be careful you don’t get too high without a crash pad because a fall onto the exposed roots below could easily sprain an ankle.
At an elevation of 4220 feet, afternoons at Beacon Heights are generally cool, with a nice breeze that gives respite from the sweltering summer heat of Boone. The shaded nature of the forest also means that after a good rain the boulders will stay wet for about one day.
Getting there: From Linville take 221 past Grandfather Mountain to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Take a right and head south toward Spruce Pine, cross the bridge over 221 and look for the Beacon Heights parking area on the left at milepost 305. Take the moderately steep trail one mile to the top (first overlook near the summit) for a view not easily forgotten. To find the boulders locate a small trail heading into the forest near the Mountains-to-Sea trail sign.
Gear & Guides: Rock Dimensions in Boone offers crash pad rentals so you can climb high with no fear, climber’s chalk and chalk bags for sweaty palms, and shoes designed specifically for climbing rocks that make it much, much easier. Give them a call at 828-265-3544, or stop by their shop located in downtown Boone at Footsloggers Gear Shop (look for the climbing tower) and get what you need to get out.
BIKE
Boone has long been revered as one of the premier destinations for cyclists. With hundreds of miles of singletrack and fire roads in close proximity to Boones bustling downtown there is no question that the hordes of cyclists have been coming to the right place.
The Boone Greenway: With over five miles of off-road terrain in a variety of settings, the Greenway Recreational area off of State Farm Road provides a quick fix for an afternoon ride. The area features a plethora of tough climbs, fast downhills, and technical singletracks that will keep mountain bikers spinning for hours. The system of trails in the State Farm area is a discontinuous conglomeration of overlapping roads and singletracks that branch off of the main pedestrian trail that all combine to make the Greenway a perfect destination for an afternoon of exploration. The majority of the trails take singletrack along the ridges through a cool canopy of trees with nice views of the South Fork of the New River as it meanders through the grass fields of the Greenway below.
Getting there: From Boone take State Farm Road to the Watauga County Swim Complex (near the skate park and National Guard Armory) and start exploring the miles of mountain bike trails in the forests above the fields.
China Creek Trail: There is no better trail for the intermediate rider in the High Country than the China Creek Trail. Located off of Globe Road below Blowing Rock, the China Creek trail offers fast riding on well-maintained forest service roads and excellent singletrack. The area features a lush deciduous forest with a high-density of large Hemlocks and evergreens (see them while you can because the wooly adelgid, an invasive species, is quickly decimating the once might Hemlock). The forest service road meanders along the ridge and crosses several mountain streams with green moss growing on shaded boulders and small waterfalls pouring into deep pools as they run quickly down the precipitously steep slopes. Following the gravel road through the forest the cyclist will come to a concrete section of road that allows the stream to flow over the road without eroding. Shortly after this bridge the China Creek trail intersects the road. Stay straight along the forest service road for five more miles and reach an incomparable view of the (seemingly endless) Pisgah National Forest and Wilson Creek Gorge. Take a left and the cyclist drops into the dense forest for a rapid descent down a mix of singletrack and forest road that edges along beside the beautiful China Creek. Rip it through the forest, over the boulders, and across the creek to a steep climb up loose, rocky terrain to regain the forest service road. Repeat as necessary.
Getting there: From Blowing Rock find the Globe Road and descend down the steep slope for three miles to a large pull off on the right. To begin, take the unmarked forest service road uphill and continue along until the stream crosses over the road. Descend into the forest.
Yancey Ridge Trail: For the more advanced rider in the area there is no trail more technical than the Yancey Ridge. The trail utilizes a steep initial climb to gain sufficient elevation to provide for a rip-roaring rollercoaster ride along a forested ridge for over 12 miles. Crossing through blended forests comprised of Oaks, Maples, Pines, and Hemlocks, the trail takes a direct path through the heart of the Pisgah Wilderness where the deer and black bear roam freely as they feed on the bountiful supply of berries and acorns. But rider beware of the near-mauled-experience* that could be just around the bend.
*Naturally occurring phenomenon that is achievable when encountering a massive black bear while ripping down a fast trail.
Although the trail is sometimes plagued by fallen trees (A dedicated crew of area riders works diligently to ensure that the trail remains rip-able) these opportunities afford the cyclist the opportunity to look around and take in the boundless views of the Pisgah. The position the ridgeline affords the cyclist is one of pure wonder with the Globe Valley to the left, Lost Cove to the right and a myriad of peaks and valleys in the distance. Be sure to bring plenty of extra energy (Parr Barr, anyone?) for the challenging descent through the washed out forest service road at the end. The combination of steep logging roads and years of erosion have led to a microcosmic canyon land where only the slightest mistake will have the rider stuck deep in an erosion gully with no easy way out (think deep six deep). Bring your a-game or be prepared to hike a little because this section is reserved for the best. The ride culminates with a casual (think long, arduous) climb up a 3% grade gravel road back to the parking lot on Roseboro Road.
Getting there: From Linville take a left on Roseboro Road (in Eseola) and make your way to the Blue Ridge Parkway. Go straight across the parkway and down the steep gravel road for 2 miles +/- to a parking area adjacent to a concrete bridge. Park and explore Gragg Prong Falls for a good warm-up and then head over the bridge and up the Forest Service Road (#192) toward Old House Gap. Reach the Old House Gap at the top of the 2 mile climb, refuel, and look around for the remnants of the Old House before taking a right and ripping it down the Yancey Ridge.
RASBERRY RIDGE: Got the need for speed? If so, look no further than Rasberry Ridge and the endless possibilities for continuous forearm shaking, hand cramp inducing, fast-forward riding that surround it. The trail drops down trails so seamless and perfectly shaped that they make roller-coaster rides seem boring. Whether it be carving through red-clay pine forest hills at forty m.p.h. or taking the high-line through a fifteen foot tall berm beneath a canopy of massive Red Oaks, there is something for every mountain biker to be found on this ride. While there is no need to even spin the pedals while ripping down the Rasberry Ridge, the experienced mountain biker/downhill-er will find that a few pedals here and there will provide more than enough speed to take the g-force inducing corners and big jumps waiting at the bottom. The most challenging section of the trail comes just after a tightly forested 1/8 mile (think overgrown shrubs brushing your handebars). At this point the trail drops steeply over small boulders and roots through several creek crossings and boulder fields that can provide quite the technical challenge under normal, dank summer conditions.
Getting there: From Linville go South down 221 to Pineola and take a left onto Hwy. 181. Drive South to the Linville Gorge/Table Rock access road Gingercake Acres. Head toward Table Rock and look for a pull-off on the left about a half-mile after the road turns to gravel and a half-mile before Hawksbill Mountain. Look for a good trail heading downhill out of the parking spot (3 to 4 cars) with a ride-able crosstie across a drainage ditch.
BIKE SHOPS: Both Magic Cycles and Boone Bike&Touring have more than enough gear to keep you rolling down the rugged trails and scenic back-roads of the High Country. Dont forget to stock up on the essentials like extra tubes, a bike pump, extra batteries for the headlamp/headlight, a steri-pen for instant water purification, and plenty of food. Magic Cycles is located on S. Depot Street across from Footsloggers Gear Shop and just up the street from the incomparable Black Cat Burrito ~ home of the High Countrys best stomach-stuffing burrito. Boone Bike is located near BB&T at Boones largest intersection (and longest lasting stoplight). From Boone take 321 toward Blowing Rock and hit the center lane just past TCBY for a left turn into Boone Bike across from Mickey Ds.
The Linville Gorge
The Linville
River is one of five rivers to have its headwaters high on
Grandfather Mountain. The river runs South along the Blue Ridge
Mountains as a peaceful and inviting river until suddenly the river's
nature changes and the water drops precipitously over the Linville
Falls, thus beginning the Linville Gorge. Over the course of eons of
time the river has formed one of Eastern America's most beautiful,
yet rugged, gorges. The lush vegetation and steep terrain of the
Gorge make travel into and out of this rugged place an oftentimes
difficult undertaking. A series of trails head down from the rim of
the gorge and link into the Linville River Trail, which runs
alongside the Linville River for 13 miles and offers breathtaking
views of the thundering rapids, massive boulders, and breathtaking
vistas that make the Linville Gorge such a spectacular place. The
powerful rapids formed by the Linville River make it one of the
premier whitewater runs in the entire country as the river descends
over 2,000 feet before breaking into the open levels of the Catawba
Valley.
Climbing
opportunities abound in the Linville Gorge. With dozens of moderate
multi pitch rock climbs in the Linville Gorge most visiting climbers
stay satisfied season after season. With endless opportunities for
further exploration of the various crags and rock formations that
line either side of the Linville Gorge the possibilities for new
route development here are also great. Some of the classic
multi-pitch trad routes in the 5.5 range are The Mummy, The Daddy,
and The Prow in the Amphitheater near the North Carolina Wall. These
routes offer great exposure with generally abundant gear (the gear on
the Prow is a bit sparse on easy, low-angle terrain) and high-quality
quartzite rock that has an abundance of holds on the various features
that comprise these great climbs. Above the Amphitheater is the
craggy area known as The Chimneys. The Chimneys offer a handful of
easy to moderate top ropes on the fifty foot tall crags and provide a
great vantage point of the Linville Gorge.
At Table
Rock climbers can choose between a variety of routes from 5.4 to
5.12+. Some of the most popular moderates are The North Ridge and
Jim Dandy. Both of these climbs offer great climbing with incredible
exposure on one of the Linville Gorge's most notable rock formations.
Jim Dandy is a bolted route that offers a great opportunity for
climbers with less trad experience (and gear) to get high off the
deck and enjoy some of the views that make the area so spectacular.
The North Ridge is a trad route that offers a fairly difficult start
that is protected by natural protection. The first belay is at a set
of three old pins that offers an excellent vantage of the area from a
good stance midway up Table Rock Mountain.
This is the first printed guidebook to cover the climbing
areas on this most beautiful and rugged side of Linville Gorge. It is 32
pages, black and white, and features mostly written descriptions and maps
for 80 climbing routes spread out over several miles of Linville Gorge.
Climbing areas include Wiseman's View, Linville River Crag and The Gold
Coast.